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multi-dog households, a new dog can throw off the balance and everyone might
need some reminding of their training. Here are some suggestions to get your
new dog’s introduction to your dog or dogs off to the best start! Note: The
technique we describe below is for DOG-FRIENDLY dogs. If you do not know if the
dogs have been friendly with other dogs before, or if any of them have shown
aggression toward another dog (lunging, snapping), please do the introduction
with a professional trainer or behaviorist to guide you.
your new dog is coming from a shelter or rescue boarding kennel, or has been
exposed to other dogs within the last 2 weeks that were from or in a kennel,
make sure your dog(s) are current on all their vaccinations, including
bordatella (kennel cough) especially. Get your vet’s recommendations whether
total separation (quarantine) is needed and for how long. There are many
potentially fatal diseases that dogs can be ‘incubating’ that may not show any
symptoms during the first few weeks. Also, treat any new dog for fleas and
other parasite prevention as recommended by your vet, before introducing them
to any other dogs.
having a new dog coming in their house is enough to for your current dog(s) to
adjust to. Keep your new dog totally separated by using a “starter room” like a
bedroom or bathroom, size appropriate. Starter room tips:
a room that is NOT used by your other dogs for sleeping or eating.
the room, or better yet: use a crate (see crate
play and train separately, giving equal time to all dogs.
on your adult dog’s reaction after the first introduction (see below), the
total separation period could be an hour, a week, or more.
introductions: walking sessions
is just one method of introduction. There are other ways that work well too!
This is a very slow and safe method.
you have more than one dog, introduce them to your new dog one at a time. Start
with the most friendly submissive of your dogs.
unfamiliar territory, such as a street, or park you don’t usually visit. For
this example, we’ll explain it as if you’ve walked down the block and turned
onto streets you don’t normally walk on. This helps avoids any “this is my
dogs start out on leash, each handled by a different person.
dog#1 out of the house and down the neutral block.
dog#2 out of the house and onto the neutral block after dog #1, keeping a
distance of at least 40 feet to start.
around the neighborhood, keeping the 40ft distance between you, until both dogs
are walking and not paying attention to each other. This can take anywhere from
one minute to a half hour (or longer!) depending on the dogs. If you can’t walk
them long enough to get to that neutral-ignoring-each-other state while 40 feet
apart, try lengthening the distance. You may need to do several of these
sessions, and work on training to focus on you while walking (reward looking at
you with treats/praise).
you’re walking at a distance in the neutral state, you can begin to slowly
close the distance. If the dog pulls on the leash towards the other dog,
lengthen the distance a bit, until you can slowly close the distance gap to
about 6 feet.
who is the lead dog by having dog #2 cross the street, dog #1 slow down to fall
behind, then cross the street to walk behind dog #2 at the same distance.
you want them to walk “parallel” but with their handlers in between. So the order
from left to right is: dog#1, dog#1 handler, dog #2 handler, dog #2.
Keep the dogs walking next to your side.
Don’t pull steadily or choke up on the dog.
Use short tugs on the leash to keep them at your side if needed.
Try to keep some slack in the leash, but keep control.
RELAX! Have a friendly conversation with your helper. Dogs respond to their
handlers emotions. If you are tense, they will know it from how you feel on
their leash… and the other dog (especially if it’s your dog) will be watching
your face too. Relax, talk, smile.
the parallel walking goes well, you can have one handler switch sides with
their dog, and then if that goes well, both handlers can switch. Then, if THAT
goes well, you can allow some brief butt-sniffing BUT try to avoid any
head-to-head meeting. So head-to-butt… they are dogs, this is how they say
hello in a friendly manner!
either dog wants to stay away from the other dog, do not “force” him to say
hello. They may not be the best of friends immediately, or for a long time, or
ever. Ignoring each other is just fine too! Some dogs enjoy the company of
other dogs, but in a calm non-interactive way.
attention to your dog’s communication signals… he or she will show you when
they are relaxed and happy. After the first introduction, you can slowly
increase the amount of time they spend together. If either dog shows signs of
intolerance (growling, lip curl) or aggression (snarl, lunge, or snap) , try a
slower introduction – lengthen the distance between them, and continue with
walking sessions a few times a day. If the aggression continues, consult a
behaviorist or trainer. Do several days or more of parallel walking, before
introduction & together sessions
the largest area possible so your dogs have room to move around. This might be
your back yard or your living room. (The kitchen = food so this is not usually
a good area.) We’ll assume you’re using the yard for the rest of this exercise.
Use the yard, then repeat inside other areas of your home.
all toys, beds & treats in a closet (totally closed away).
a long-enough parallel walking session so both dogs are tired. Have the walking
session end by walking into your home or yard.
the new dog follow your resident dog into the yard.
around the yard with both dogs on leashes, just like on your walks, same
“rules” above apply!
these together sessions on to the end of your walk sessions. You might start
with 5-10 minutes on the end, and gradually increase the length of the
after a few sessions, both dogs are is happy and relaxed, you may drop your
resident dog’s leash, while keeping new dog on a leash for a few more sessions.
& separate time
both dogs can be together in the home while dragging their leashes supervised
for longer and longer periods.
the first few months, we highly recommend keeping all new dogs totally and
safely separated (crated or separate rooms with closed doors) when you are not
actively supervising them. Some dogs are safest always crated/separated when
you are gone. Keep possible triggers like food, treats, chews, and high-value
toys out of the mix for that entire time too. They can have those when they are
there are any minor squabbles, you may need to take a few steps back and take
the progression more slowly. Do not let dogs “work it out” – you should be the
rule enforcer, just like a teacher with students – a good teacher wouldn’t let
students fight it out! Every dog is
different – some dogs will growl and never escalate to a snap or bite – how
well do you know your dog and your new dog? Dogs should be able to communicate
and work out any differences (like “that’s my tennis ball”) without showing ANY
to aggressive behavior.
dogs adjust to other dogs over time, and can even become the best of friends!
But since the consequences of a problem can be severe, it is wise to follow a
slow introduction process as outlined above to ensure all goes well when adding
a new dog to your home.
See more at http://www.adoptapet.com/blog/introducing-your-new-dog-to-other-dogs/
Bloat" refers to a life-threatening condition that requires immediate veterinary care known as gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV), gastric torsion and twisted stomach.
are the signs of heatstroke?
Signs of heatstroke include:
or pale gums
(sometimes with blood)
heatstroke progresses, it can cause seizures, coma, cardiac arrest, and death.
should I do if my dog gets heatstroke?
Remove your dog from the hot area immediately. While transporting him
immediately to your veterinarian, lower his temperature by placing cool, wet
towels over the back of the neck, under the forelimbs, and in the groin area.
If possible, increase air movement around him with a fan. Be careful, however,
as using very cold water can actually be counterproductive. CAUTION: Cooling
too quickly and especially allowing his body temperature to become too low can
cause other life-threatening medical conditions. The rectal temperature should
be checked every 5 minutes. Once the body temperature is 103ºF, the cooling
measures should be stopped and your dog should be dried thoroughly and covered
so he does not continue to lose heat. Even if your dog appears to be
recovering, take him to your veterinarian as soon as possible, he should still
be examined since he may be dehydrated or have other complications.
free access to water if your dog can drink on his own. Do not try to force-feed
cold water; as he may inhale it and could choke.
can heatstroke be prevented?
pets with predisposing conditions like heart disease, obesity, older age, or
breathing problems cool and in the shade. Even normal activity for these pets
can be harmful.
access to water at all times.
not leave your pet in a hot parked car even if you're in the shade or will only
be gone a short time. The temperature inside a parked car can quickly reach up
to 140 degrees.
sure outside dogs have access to shade.
a hot day, restrict exercise and don't take your dog jogging with you. Too much
exercise when the weather is very hot can be dangerous.
not muzzle your dog.
places like the beach and especially concrete or asphalt areas where heat is
reflected and there is no access to shade.
down your dog with cool water or allowing him to swim can help maintain a
normal body temperature.
your dog to a cool area of the house. Air conditioning is one of the best ways
to keep a dog cool, but is not always dependable. To provide a cooler
environment, freeze water in soda bottles, or place ice and a small amount of
water in several resealable food storage bags, then wrap them in a towel or
tube sock. Place them on the floor for your pet to lay on.
can prevent your pet from suffering heatstroke. Use common sense and think of
what it might feel like to wear a fur jacket (that cannot be removed) on a hot
Maneuver for Dogs
Sadly, it is not uncommon for a dog to choke because they swallow things they
shouldn't, like toys and bones. If your dog is choking, he will start coughing
forcefully, bulge his eyes and paw at his mouth. In order to save your dog's
life, there are several things to do: • First, open your dog's mouth and look
for the object. Place one hand on the upper jaw with your thumb on one
side and the rest of your finders on the other side. • With your other hand,
push down on the lower jaw, keeping your index finger free to sweep back into
the mouth. • If you can see the object, remove it. • If there are two of you
one of you should hold your dog's mouth open and the other look inside. If that
doesn't work, and your dog is small, hold him upside down with his tail toward
your face. Place your arms around his lower abdomen for 30 seconds while gently
swaying him. If that doesn't work, place your dog on his side on a hard
surface, tilted with his head down and hindquarters up. If you can grab a
pillow or rolled towel, put it under his hindquarters just make sure the front
part of his body is lower than his back. • With a small dog, place one hand on
his back to steady him and the other under the center of the rib cage. Press in
and up four to five times in a thrusting motion. • With a large fog, you'll
need both hands for the trust, so place both hands beneath the rib cage, Press
in and up four or five times. If you don't have time to place your dog on his
side, you can stand or kneel behind your dog. Grasp his body at the bottom of
his rib cage. Grasp his body at the bottom of his rib cage. Apply firm, quick
pressure. Repeat two to five times. Remember that once your dog stops choking,
he may try and bite you.
Do you know
what to do if your dog stops breathing? Knowing a few emergency procedures if
your dog is choking, or having difficulty breathing, could save your dog's life
because you may not have time to get to a vet.
your dog has a foreign object stuck in his throat, it is important to try and
dislodge it before performing CPR. perform the:
Heimlich Maneuver for dogs.
resuscitation) preserves brain function until proper blood circulation and
breathing can be restored.
The signs that indicate the need for CPR include
unconsciousness, lack of arousal, lack of physical movement, or eye blinking.
These symptoms can occur from drowning, choking, electrical shock, or a number
of other situations.
The following information has been updated with
latest recommended guidelines outlined by the first evidence-based research on
how best to resuscitate dogs and cats in cardiac arrest published in June 2012
by the Reassessment Campaign on Veterinary Resuscitation (RECOVER). The study recommends
a few updates to current manual CPR practices on dogs:
Perform 100-120 chest compressions per minute
Perform a compression to mouth-to-snout ventilation
ratio of 30 compressions followed by 2 breaths
Recommendations on how best to perform cardiac
massage / chest compressions on different chest types and sizes of dogs.
The key to canine CPR is remembering the
To perform the three techniques, follow these steps.
Lay the dog on a flat surface and extend the head
back to create an airway. (Current practices recommend laying the dog on
his/her right side (heart facing up), however the latest recommended guidelines
state that either the left or right lateral recumbency are acceptable.)
Open the jaws to check for obstructions, and if any
exist and are not easily removed, try to dislodge the object. See our article
Heimlich Maneuever for dogs for details on how to dislodge a dog's blocked
Cup your hands around the muzzle of the dog's mouth
so that only the nostrils are clear. Blow air into the nostrils with five or
six quick breaths, again, depending on the size of the dog. Small dogs and
puppies and require short and shallow breaths. Larger dogs need longer and
deeper breaths. Continue the quick breaths at a rate of one breath every three
seconds or 20 breaths per minute.
Check for a heartbeat by using your finger on the
inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If you don't feel a pulse, put your
hand over the dog's chest cavity where the elbow touches the middle of the
chest. If you still don't find a pulse, have one person continue breathing into
the nostrils (mouth to snout), while another gives chest compressions / cardiac
massage. If you are alone, do the compression and mouth-to-snout ventilation
Give the dog chest compressions (cardiac massage)
by placing both hands palms down on the chest cavity of the dog. For most dogs,
chest compressions can be performed on the widest part of the chest while the
dog is lying on his side.For dogs with keel-shaped chests (i.e. deep, narrow
chests) in breeds such as greyhounds push down closer to the dog's armpit,
directly over the heart.For dogs with barrel-chested dogs like English bulldogs
lay the dog on its back and compress on the sternum (directly over the heart),
like people.For smaller dogs (and cats) chest-compressions scan be done with
one hand wrapped around the sternum, encircling the heart or two-handed on the
ribs.For large dogs, place your hands on top of each other. For small dogs or
puppies, place one hand or thumb on the chest.
Use the heel of your hand(s) to push down for 30
quick compressions followed by 2 breaths of air (ventilation) and then check to
see if consciousness has been restored. If consciousness has not been restored,
continue the compressions in cycles of 100 to 120 chest compressions per minute
(the same rhythm administered for people).
Perform CPR in 2-minute cycles checking to see if
breathing and consciousness has been restored.
Ideally, CPR is performed while on route to
emergency veterinarian care. If this is not possible, contact a veterinarian
once the dog has started breathing.
Foods to avoid
Chocolate, Coffee, Caffeine
These products all
contain substances called methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the
fruit of the plant used to make coffee and in the nuts of an extract used in
some sodas. When ingested by pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and
diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal
heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death. Note that darker chocolate is
more dangerous than milk chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of methylxanthines,
while baking chocolate contains the highest.
and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased
coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors,
abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death.
The leaves, fruit,
seeds and bark of avocados contain Persin, which can cause vomiting and
diarrhea in dogs. Birds and rodents are especially sensitive to avocado
poisoning, and can develop congestion, difficulty breathing and fluid
accumulation around the heart. Some ingestions may even be fatal.
Macadamia nuts are
commonly used in many cookies and candies. However, they can cause problems for
your canine companion. These nuts have caused weakness, depression, vomiting,
tremors and hyperthermia in dogs. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of
ingestion and last approximately 12 to 48 hours.
Grapes & Raisins
Although the toxic
substance within grapes and raisins is unknown, these fruits can cause kidney
failure. In pets who already have certain health problems, signs may be more
Yeast dough can
rise and cause gas to accumulate in your pet’s digestive system. This can be
painful and can cause the stomach or intestines to rupture. Because the risk
diminishes after the dough is cooked and the yeast has fully risen, pets can
have small bits of bread as treats. However, these treats should not constitute
more than 5 percent to 10 percent of your pet’s daily caloric intake.
Raw/Undercooked Meat, Eggs and Bones
Raw meat and raw
eggs can contain bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli that
can be harmful to pets. In addition, raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin
that decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin), which can lead to skin
and coat problems. Feeding your pet raw bones may seem like a natural and
healthy option that might occur if your pet lived in the wild. However, this
can be very dangerous for a domestic pet, who might choke on bones, or sustain
a grave injury should the bone splinter and become lodged in or puncture your
pet’s digestive tract.
Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, including gum, candy,
baked goods and toothpaste. It can cause insulin release in most species, which
can lead to liver failure. The increase in insulin leads to hypoglycemia
(lowered sugar levels). Initial signs of toxicosis include vomiting, lethargy
and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to recumbancy and seizures.
Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few days.
Onions, Garlic, Chives
and herbs can cause gastrointestinal irritation and could lead to red blood
cell damage. Although cats are more susceptible, dogs are also at risk if a
large enough amount is consumed. Toxicity is normally diagnosed through
history, clinical signs and microscopic confirmation of Heinz bodies. An
occasional low dose, such as what might be found in pet foods or treats, likely
will not cause a problem, but we recommend that you do NOT give your pets large
quantities of these foods.
Because pets do not
possess significant amounts of lactase (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in
milk), milk and other milk-based products cause them diarrhea or other
Large amounts of
salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning
in pets. Signs that your pet may have eaten too many salty foods include
vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures
and even death. In other words, keep those salty chips to yourself!
OF COCONUT OIL FOR DOGS
diseases and ailments, like yeast infections, smelly coats, hot spots, cuts
that have been infected, and even cracked paws, can all be cured with just a
jar of “virgin coconut oil.” When all forms of diet remedies have failed, then
it is time to try out this miracle natural medicine for your dog. Virgin
coconut oil means that it is unrefined, and it can be used for both dogs and
humans. Lauric acid, a medium chain fatty acid, can help prevent bacterial and
viral infections. This is most commonly found in a mother’s milk and builds the
immune system. Fortunately, dogs can benefit from the same kind of protection
and health advantages it gives throughout their lives.
are many other benefits of coconut
oil for dogs, all good reasons why you should give your dog some virgin
coconut oil. First, it can potentially reduce cancer risks. It also improves
the digestion of your dog and becomes medicine for most digestive upsets. The
thyroid function is also kept normal with coconut oil. It can give your dog a
smooth glossy coat, as well as healthy, supple skin. Yeast and fungal
infections are also treated and prevented through the use of coconut oil.
Arthritis and similar pains can also be minimized or treated. Coconut can also
balance your dog’s metabolism rate to keep his weight under control.
area in which amazing results have been attained is in prevention of parasitic
infestations, and apparently curing the problem in many instances. As described
in an article on the HealingNaturallyByBee.com website:
oil may provide an effective defense against many troublesome parasites
including giardia. Like bacteria and fungi, giardia can’t stand up against MCFA
found in coconut oil.
has confirmed the effectiveness of MCFA in destroying giardia and possibly
other protozoa.5,6,7 By using coconut oil and other coconut products every day,
you may be able to destroy giardia before it can establish a toehold.
can be given internally or applied externally, and can provide remedies for
many skin infections. It can disinfect cuts and improve your dog’s general skin
and coat condition, making it healthier. Wounds also heal faster with coconut
oil, and it helps to deodorize your dog’s skin and clear up some rashes as
unlike most herbal products that are good for your dog’s health, coconut is
something that your dog will most probably love to eat. They will most likely
gobble up the coconut oil and not be too picky with it. Just as humans can get
a bit nutty for coconut, so can our beloved buddies. Mix it with their food –
it has cured many picky eaters.
vets and researchers today are recommending the regular use of coconut oil for
dogs and many other pets as an excellent source of nutrients, which keeps your
dog in good health.
recommended dose is pretty easy; just give a teaspoon of coconut oil per 10
pounds of dog, or you can give a table spoon per 30 pounds. Start with about
1/4 the recommended dosage and build up to the recommended level over 3-4
weeks, as sometimes flu-like symptoms can appear if you hurried it right away.
of coconut oil for dogs are being constantly discovered. Get some for
your fur baby’s health and well-being.
Fish Oil Benefits:
Healthy skin &
- Decreased inflammation
- Increased stamina
- Improved the immune system
- Decreased shedding
- Adds moisture to dry, irritated skin
Advanced research and case studies continue to show evidence that the benefits
of Omega-3 & 6 Fatty Acids such as:
- Reduced Joint
- Less Problems with Dry, Itchy Skin Attractive, Shiny Coat
- Renewed Energy
- Protection against Auto Immune Diseases
- Reduced Risk of Stroke or Heart Problems
- Keeping Blood Triglycerides in Check
- Antioxidant Properties Lower Risk of Cancer
- Anti-Inflammatory Activity