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Helpful Information 



Slow Introductions

In multi-dog households, a new dog can throw off the balance and everyone might need some reminding of their training. Here are some suggestions to get your new dog’s introduction to your dog or dogs off to the best start! Note: The technique we describe below is for DOG-FRIENDLY dogs. If you do not know if the dogs have been friendly with other dogs before, or if any of them have shown aggression toward another dog (lunging, snapping), please do the introduction with a professional trainer or behaviorist to guide you.

Get ready!

If your new dog is coming from a shelter or rescue boarding kennel, or has been exposed to other dogs within the last 2 weeks that were from or in a kennel, make sure your dog(s) are current on all their vaccinations, including bordatella (kennel cough) especially. Get your vet’s recommendations whether total separation (quarantine) is needed and for how long. There are many potentially fatal diseases that dogs can be ‘incubating’ that may not show any symptoms during the first few weeks. Also, treat any new dog for fleas and other parasite prevention as recommended by your vet, before introducing them to any other dogs.

Total separation

Just having a new dog coming in their house is enough to for your current dog(s) to adjust to. Keep your new dog totally separated by using a “starter room” like a bedroom or bathroom, size appropriate. Starter room tips:

Use a room that is NOT used by your other dogs for sleeping or eating.

Dog-proof the room, or better yet: use a crate (see crate training).

Feed, play and train separately, giving equal time to all dogs.

Depending on your adult dog’s reaction after the first introduction (see below), the total separation period could be an hour, a week, or more.

First introductions: walking sessions

This is just one method of introduction. There are other ways that work well too! This is a very slow and safe method.

If you have more than one dog, introduce them to your new dog one at a time. Start with the most friendly submissive of your dogs.

Use unfamiliar territory, such as a street, or park you don’t usually visit. For this example, we’ll explain it as if you’ve walked down the block and turned onto streets you don’t normally walk on. This helps avoids any “this is my territory” issues.

Both dogs start out on leash, each handled by a different person.

Walk dog#1 out of the house and down the neutral block.

Walk dog#2 out of the house and onto the neutral block after dog #1, keeping a distance of at least 40 feet to start.

Walk around the neighborhood, keeping the 40ft distance between you, until both dogs are walking and not paying attention to each other. This can take anywhere from one minute to a half hour (or longer!) depending on the dogs. If you can’t walk them long enough to get to that neutral-ignoring-each-other state while 40 feet apart, try lengthening the distance. You may need to do several of these sessions, and work on training to focus on you while walking (reward looking at you with treats/praise).

Once you’re walking at a distance in the neutral state, you can begin to slowly close the distance. If the dog pulls on the leash towards the other dog, lengthen the distance a bit, until you can slowly close the distance gap to about 6 feet.

Alternate who is the lead dog by having dog #2 cross the street, dog #1 slow down to fall behind, then cross the street to walk behind dog #2 at the same distance.

Next, you want them to walk “parallel” but with their handlers in between. So the order from left to right is: dog#1, dog#1 handler, dog #2 handler, dog #2.

Walking Session Rules:

- Keep the dogs walking next to your side.

- Don’t pull steadily or choke up on the dog.

- Use short tugs on the leash to keep them at your side if needed.

- Try to keep some slack in the leash, but keep control.

- RELAX! Have a friendly conversation with your helper. Dogs respond to their handlers emotions. If you are tense, they will know it from how you feel on their leash… and the other dog (especially if it’s your dog) will be watching your face too. Relax, talk, smile.

If the parallel walking goes well, you can have one handler switch sides with their dog, and then if that goes well, both handlers can switch. Then, if THAT goes well, you can allow some brief butt-sniffing BUT try to avoid any head-to-head meeting. So head-to-butt… they are dogs, this is how they say hello in a friendly manner!

If either dog wants to stay away from the other dog, do not “force” him to say hello. They may not be the best of friends immediately, or for a long time, or ever. Ignoring each other is just fine too! Some dogs enjoy the company of other dogs, but in a calm non-interactive way.

Pay attention to your dog’s communication signals… he or she will show you when they are relaxed and happy. After the first introduction, you can slowly increase the amount of time they spend together. If either dog shows signs of intolerance (growling, lip curl) or aggression (snarl, lunge, or snap) , try a slower introduction – lengthen the distance between them, and continue with walking sessions a few times a day. If the aggression continues, consult a behaviorist or trainer. Do several days or more of parallel walking, before proceeding to…

Home introduction & together sessions

Pick the largest area possible so your dogs have room to move around. This might be your back yard or your living room. (The kitchen = food so this is not usually a good area.) We’ll assume you’re using the yard for the rest of this exercise. Use the yard, then repeat inside other areas of your home.

Put all toys, beds & treats in a closet (totally closed away).

Do a long-enough parallel walking session so both dogs are tired. Have the walking session end by walking into your home or yard.

Let the new dog follow your resident dog into the yard.

Walk around the yard with both dogs on leashes, just like on your walks, same “rules” above apply!

Add these together sessions on to the end of your walk sessions. You might start with 5-10 minutes on the end, and gradually increase the length of the sessions.

If after a few sessions, both dogs are is happy and relaxed, you may drop your resident dog’s leash, while keeping new dog on a leash for a few more sessions.

Together & separate time

Eventually, both dogs can be together in the home while dragging their leashes supervised for longer and longer periods.

For the first few months, we highly recommend keeping all new dogs totally and safely separated (crated or separate rooms with closed doors) when you are not actively supervising them. Some dogs are safest always crated/separated when you are gone. Keep possible triggers like food, treats, chews, and high-value toys out of the mix for that entire time too. They can have those when they are separated.

Keeping the Peace

If there are any minor squabbles, you may need to take a few steps back and take the progression more slowly. Do not let dogs “work it out” – you should be the rule enforcer, just like a teacher with students – a good teacher wouldn’t let students fight it out!  Every dog is different – some dogs will growl and never escalate to a snap or bite – how well do you know your dog and your new dog? Dogs should be able to communicate and work out any differences (like “that’s my tennis ball”) without showing ANY to aggressive behavior.

Best Friends?

Most dogs adjust to other dogs over time, and can even become the best of friends! But since the consequences of a problem can be severe, it is wise to follow a slow introduction process as outlined above to ensure all goes well when adding a new dog to your home.

See more at http://www.adoptapet.com/blog/introducing-your-new-dog-to-other-dogs/



Bloat" refers to a life-threatening condition that requires immediate veterinary care known as gastric dilatation-volvulus (GDV), gastric torsion and twisted stomach.

What are the signs of heatstroke?
Signs of heatstroke include:

  • Increased heart rate
  • Excessive panting
  • Increased salivation
  • Bright red tongue
  • Red or pale gums
  • Thick, sticky saliva
  • Depression
  • Weakness
  • Dizziness
  • Vomiting (sometimes with blood)
  • Diarrhea

As heatstroke progresses, it can cause seizures, coma, cardiac arrest, and death.

What should I do if my dog gets heatstroke?
Remove your dog from the hot area immediately. While transporting him immediately to your veterinarian, lower his temperature by placing cool, wet towels over the back of the neck, under the forelimbs, and in the groin area. If possible, increase air movement around him with a fan. Be careful, however, as using very cold water can actually be counterproductive. CAUTION: Cooling too quickly and especially allowing his body temperature to become too low can cause other life-threatening medical conditions. The rectal temperature should be checked every 5 minutes. Once the body temperature is 103ºF, the cooling measures should be stopped and your dog should be dried thoroughly and covered so he does not continue to lose heat. Even if your dog appears to be recovering, take him to your veterinarian as soon as possible, he should still be examined since he may be dehydrated or have other complications.

Allow free access to water if your dog can drink on his own. Do not try to force-feed cold water; as he may inhale it and could choke.

How can heatstroke be prevented?

  • Keep pets with predisposing conditions like heart disease, obesity, older age, or breathing problems cool and in the shade. Even normal activity for these pets can be harmful. 
  • Provide access to water at all times. 
  • Do not leave your pet in a hot parked car even if you're in the shade or will only be gone a short time. The temperature inside a parked car can quickly reach up to 140 degrees. 
  • Make sure outside dogs have access to shade. 
  • On a hot day, restrict exercise and don't take your dog jogging with you. Too much exercise when the weather is very hot can be dangerous. 
  • Do not muzzle your dog. 

Avoid places like the beach and especially concrete or asphalt areas where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade. 

Wetting down your dog with cool water or allowing him to swim can help maintain a normal body temperature. 

Move your dog to a cool area of the house. Air conditioning is one of the best ways to keep a dog cool, but is not always dependable. To provide a cooler environment, freeze water in soda bottles, or place ice and a small amount of water in several resealable food storage bags, then wrap them in a towel or tube sock. Place them on the floor for your pet to lay on.

You can prevent your pet from suffering heatstroke. Use common sense and think of what it might feel like to wear a fur jacket (that cannot be removed) on a hot summer day.





Heimlich Maneuver for Dogs 

Sadly, it is not uncommon for a dog to choke because they swallow things they shouldn't, like toys and bones. If your dog is choking, he will start coughing forcefully, bulge his eyes and paw at his mouth. In order to save your dog's life, there are several things to do: • First, open your dog's mouth and look for the object. Place one hand on the upper jaw with your thumb on one side and the rest of your finders on the other side. • With your other hand, push down on the lower jaw, keeping your index finger free to sweep back into the mouth. • If you can see the object, remove it. • If there are two of you one of you should hold your dog's mouth open and the other look inside. If that doesn't work, and your dog is small, hold him upside down with his tail toward your face. Place your arms around his lower abdomen for 30 seconds while gently swaying him. If that doesn't work, place your dog on his side on a hard surface, tilted with his head down and hindquarters up. If you can grab a pillow or rolled towel, put it under his hindquarters just make sure the front part of his body is lower than his back. • With a small dog, place one hand on his back to steady him and the other under the center of the rib cage. Press in and up four to five times in a thrusting motion. • With a large fog, you'll need both hands for the trust, so place both hands beneath the rib cage, Press in and up four or five times. If you don't have time to place your dog on his side, you can stand or kneel behind your dog. Grasp his body at the bottom of his rib cage. Grasp his body at the bottom of his rib cage. Apply firm, quick pressure. Repeat two to five times. Remember that once your dog stops choking, he may try and bite you.



Do you know what to do if your dog stops breathing? Knowing a few emergency procedures if your dog is choking, or having difficulty breathing, could save your dog's life because you may not have time to get to a vet. 
If your dog has a foreign object stuck in his throat, it is important to try and dislodge it before performing CPR. perform the:

Heimlich Maneuver for dogs.
Canine CPR
CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) preserves brain function until proper blood circulation and breathing can be restored.

The signs that indicate the need for CPR include unconsciousness, lack of arousal, lack of physical movement, or eye blinking. These symptoms can occur from drowning, choking, electrical shock, or a number of other situations.
The following information has been updated with latest recommended guidelines outlined by the first evidence-based research on how best to resuscitate dogs and cats in cardiac arrest published in June 2012 by the Reassessment Campaign on Veterinary Resuscitation (RECOVER). The study recommends a few updates to current manual CPR practices on dogs:

Perform 100-120 chest compressions per minute 
Perform a compression to mouth-to-snout ventilation ratio of 30 compressions followed by 2 breaths
Recommendations on how best to perform cardiac massage / chest compressions on different chest types and sizes of dogs.

The key to canine CPR is remembering the ABCs: 
Breathing, and 
Cardiac compression.

To perform the three techniques, follow these steps.
Lay the dog on a flat surface and extend the head back to create an airway. (Current practices recommend laying the dog on his/her right side (heart facing up), however the latest recommended guidelines state that either the left or right lateral recumbency are acceptable.) 
Open the jaws to check for obstructions, and if any exist and are not easily removed, try to dislodge the object. See our article Heimlich Maneuever for dogs for details on how to dislodge a dog's blocked airway safely.
Cup your hands around the muzzle of the dog's mouth so that only the nostrils are clear. Blow air into the nostrils with five or six quick breaths, again, depending on the size of the dog. Small dogs and puppies and require short and shallow breaths. Larger dogs need longer and deeper breaths. Continue the quick breaths at a rate of one breath every three seconds or 20 breaths per minute.

Check for a heartbeat by using your finger on the inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If you don't feel a pulse, put your hand over the dog's chest cavity where the elbow touches the middle of the chest. If you still don't find a pulse, have one person continue breathing into the nostrils (mouth to snout), while another gives chest compressions / cardiac massage. If you are alone, do the compression and mouth-to-snout ventilation yourself.
Give the dog chest compressions (cardiac massage) by placing both hands palms down on the chest cavity of the dog. For most dogs, chest compressions can be performed on the widest part of the chest while the dog is lying on his side.For dogs with keel-shaped chests (i.e. deep, narrow chests) in breeds such as greyhounds push down closer to the dog's armpit, directly over the heart.For dogs with barrel-chested dogs like English bulldogs lay the dog on its back and compress on the sternum (directly over the heart), like people.For smaller dogs (and cats) chest-compressions scan be done with one hand wrapped around the sternum, encircling the heart or two-handed on the ribs.For large dogs, place your hands on top of each other. For small dogs or puppies, place one hand or thumb on the chest.
Use the heel of your hand(s) to push down for 30 quick compressions followed by 2 breaths of air (ventilation) and then check to see if consciousness has been restored. If consciousness has not been restored, continue the compressions in cycles of 100 to 120 chest compressions per minute (the same rhythm administered for people).
Perform CPR in 2-minute cycles checking to see if breathing and consciousness has been restored.
Ideally, CPR is performed while on route to emergency veterinarian care. If this is not possible, contact a veterinarian once the dog has started breathing.



Foods to avoid

Chocolate, Coffee, Caffeine

These products all contain substances called methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the fruit of the plant used to make coffee and in the nuts of an extract used in some sodas. When ingested by pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death. Note that darker chocolate is more dangerous than milk chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of methylxanthines, while baking chocolate contains the highest.



Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death. 



The leaves, fruit, seeds and bark of avocados contain Persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs. Birds and rodents are especially sensitive to avocado poisoning, and can develop congestion, difficulty breathing and fluid accumulation around the heart. Some ingestions may even be fatal. 


Macadamia Nuts

Macadamia nuts are commonly used in many cookies and candies. However, they can cause problems for your canine companion. These nuts have caused weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia in dogs. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and last approximately 12 to 48 hours. 


Grapes & Raisins

Although the toxic substance within grapes and raisins is unknown, these fruits can cause kidney failure. In pets who already have certain health problems, signs may be more dramatic. 


Yeast Dough

Yeast dough can rise and cause gas to accumulate in your pet’s digestive system. This can be painful and can cause the stomach or intestines to rupture. Because the risk diminishes after the dough is cooked and the yeast has fully risen, pets can have small bits of bread as treats. However, these treats should not constitute more than 5 percent to 10 percent of your pet’s daily caloric intake. 


Raw/Undercooked Meat, Eggs and Bones

Raw meat and raw eggs can contain bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli that can be harmful to pets. In addition, raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin that decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin), which can lead to skin and coat problems. Feeding your pet raw bones may seem like a natural and healthy option that might occur if your pet lived in the wild. However, this can be very dangerous for a domestic pet, who might choke on bones, or sustain a grave injury should the bone splinter and become lodged in or puncture your pet’s digestive tract. 


Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, including gum, candy, baked goods and toothpaste. It can cause insulin release in most species, which can lead to liver failure. The increase in insulin leads to hypoglycemia (lowered sugar levels). Initial signs of toxicosis include vomiting, lethargy and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to recumbancy and seizures. Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few days. 


Onions, Garlic, Chives

These vegetables and herbs can cause gastrointestinal irritation and could lead to red blood cell damage. Although cats are more susceptible, dogs are also at risk if a large enough amount is consumed. Toxicity is normally diagnosed through history, clinical signs and microscopic confirmation of Heinz bodies. An occasional low dose, such as what might be found in pet foods or treats, likely will not cause a problem, but we recommend that you do NOT give your pets large quantities of these foods. 



Because pets do not possess significant amounts of lactase (the enzyme that breaks down lactose in milk), milk and other milk-based products cause them diarrhea or other digestive upset.



Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets. Signs that your pet may have eaten too many salty foods include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures and even death. In other words, keep those salty chips to yourself!





Beneficial suppliments


Many diseases and ailments, like yeast infections, smelly coats, hot spots, cuts that have been infected, and even cracked paws, can all be cured with just a jar of “virgin coconut oil.” When all forms of diet remedies have failed, then it is time to try out this miracle natural medicine for your dog. Virgin coconut oil means that it is unrefined, and it can be used for both dogs and humans. Lauric acid, a medium chain fatty acid, can help prevent bacterial and viral infections. This is most commonly found in a mother’s milk and builds the immune system. Fortunately, dogs can benefit from the same kind of protection and health advantages it gives throughout their lives.

There are many other benefits of coconut oil for dogs, all good reasons why you should give your dog some virgin coconut oil. First, it can potentially reduce cancer risks. It also improves the digestion of your dog and becomes medicine for most digestive upsets. The thyroid function is also kept normal with coconut oil. It can give your dog a smooth glossy coat, as well as healthy, supple skin. Yeast and fungal infections are also treated and prevented through the use of coconut oil. Arthritis and similar pains can also be minimized or treated. Coconut can also balance your dog’s metabolism rate to keep his weight under control.

Another area in which amazing results have been attained is in prevention of parasitic infestations, and apparently curing the problem in many instances. As described in an article on the HealingNaturallyByBee.com website:

Coconut oil may provide an effective defense against many troublesome parasites including giardia. Like bacteria and fungi, giardia can’t stand up against MCFA found in coconut oil.

Research has confirmed the effectiveness of MCFA in destroying giardia and possibly other protozoa.5,6,7 By using coconut oil and other coconut products every day, you may be able to destroy giardia before it can establish a toehold.

It can be given internally or applied externally, and can provide remedies for many skin infections. It can disinfect cuts and improve your dog’s general skin and coat condition, making it healthier. Wounds also heal faster with coconut oil, and it helps to deodorize your dog’s skin and clear up some rashes as well.

And unlike most herbal products that are good for your dog’s health, coconut is something that your dog will most probably love to eat. They will most likely gobble up the coconut oil and not be too picky with it. Just as humans can get a bit nutty for coconut, so can our beloved buddies. Mix it with their food – it has cured many picky eaters.

Many vets and researchers today are recommending the regular use of coconut oil for dogs and many other pets as an excellent source of nutrients, which keeps your dog in good health.

The recommended dose is pretty easy; just give a teaspoon of coconut oil per 10 pounds of dog, or you can give a table spoon per 30 pounds. Start with about 1/4 the recommended dosage and build up to the recommended level over 3-4 weeks, as sometimes flu-like symptoms can appear if you hurried it right away.

More benefits of coconut oil for dogs are being constantly discovered. Get some for your fur baby’s health and well-being.


Fish Oil Benefits:

Healthy skin & glistening coat

  • Decreased inflammation
  • Increased stamina
  • Improved the immune system
  • Decreased shedding
  • Adds moisture to dry, irritated skin

Advanced research and case studies continue to show evidence that the benefits of Omega-3 & 6 Fatty Acids such as:

  • Reduced Joint Discomfort
  • Less Problems with Dry, Itchy Skin Attractive, Shiny Coat
  • Renewed Energy
  • Protection against Auto Immune Diseases
  • Reduced Risk of Stroke or Heart Problems
  • Keeping Blood Triglycerides in Check
  • Antioxidant Properties Lower Risk of Cancer
  • Anti-Inflammatory Activity